Wednesday, May 17, 2017

A Guide to Buying Used Construction Equipment - 7 Red Flags to Avoid

1) Unusually High or Low Hours

Photo of hours meter with high hours
The first thing you should look at is the hour meter. High hours can ultimately lead to big bucks in repairs. If you are on the fence, ask the seller to provide updated maintenance records to prove the equipment has been regularly maintained and serviced. Unusually low hours can also be a red flag as unscrupulous sellers have been known to replace the hour meter without relaying this information to the buyer. A good tip is to check the screws that hold the meter in place for scuffs and wear indicating it may have been changed.

2) Untrustworthy Dealers

Suspicious equipment dealer in front of "like new" sign
Always make sure you are purchasing from a reputable dealer or rental house. Do a background check for online reviews, customer testimonials, and Better Business Bureau reports. This due diligence can potentially save you thousands of dollars in repairs and legal fees. The last thing you want to do is get into legal trouble by purchasing stolen equipment or equipment with outstanding bank liens. Trust your seller or look elsewhere.

3) Missing or Incomplete Service Records

A pile of blank service records
When purchasing used construction equipment, always ask for service records. These maintenance records can tell you a great deal about a vehicle’s history. A regularly serviced machine can perform at optimal levels for years to come. A machine without service records will leave you guessing. Always check that the fluids have been changed regularly and check for major repairs the equipment has undergone over the course of it's lifetime. If you spot any red flags, it may be time to move on to the next machine.

4) Leaks and Other Obvious Visual Issues

Before making a used equipment purchase, make sure to perform a "walk around" of the machine. Check for any obvious oil or hydraulic leaks that might point to a larger issue.
Hydraulic component leaking oilAlso look for any signs that the machine has undergone additional welding since it's manufacture as fresh welds may be hiding a serious issue.

Hairline cracks on the frame or undercarriage may indicate that the machine has been in an accident. This is especially true for the undercarriage, which can be expensive to repair or replace.

While inspecting the machine, make sure to check all flood levels and colors. (coolant, transmission fluids, engine oil, hydraulic oil, etc.) Low or dirty fluids may suggest that the previous owner may not have given the vehicle the care it needs.

5) Issues When Starting and Running the Machine 
Three colors of smoke pouring out of exhaust pipe

Always attempt to start the machine before making your final decision. If the equipment does not start after the first crank or two, it's time to investigate further as there could be serious engine issues. It can also be something minor like a dead battery or loose wire. If the unit does start, run it cold for a few minutes or so, checking the color of the smoke exiting the exhaust system. Extremely dark black, blue, or white smoke can indicate severe engine troubles. Blue smoke can indicate that the engine is burning oil. Black smoke can indicate that the engine fuel mixture is too rich and white smoke can indicate that there is coolant leakage into one or more combustion chambers.

Trucks, boom lifts, and excavator submerged in water from flood

6) Equipment Originating from Flood Zones

In areas that have recently been flooded, you may see an increased number of construction vehicles and equipment hit the market. While these machines may look like great deals with low hours and clean exteriors, water may have made its way into the engine compartment, transmission, and electrical system. Waterlogged components are often expensive to repair and may not be easy to spot until your equipment starts to break down. 

Excavator on a trailer with "for sale" sign7) Suspicious Deals

When a deal looks too good to be true, it probably is so don't be afraid to walk away. Be wary of a machines that are priced significantly lower than similar units on the market. Remember, not all issues are easy to spot during a brief inspection, Unscrupulous dealers have been known to unload faulty equipment to overly enthusiastic buyers. 

For further questions regarding the purchasing of used construction equipment, call 1-800-DURANTE or visit us online at or our earth moving equipment division, New York Takeuchi.

Tuesday, April 18, 2017

Introducing the Takeuchi TB216H Hybrid Excavator and the IMER IMR19 Atrium Spider Lift

Did You Know That We Had....
NEW  IMER Atrium Spider Lift Model IMR19
Offering state-of-the-art a wireless radio-control system, the IMER R19 provides you with fast and versatile handling. With traction and stability for building sites and rough terrain and automatic leveling, this spider excels at reaching the heights other can’t reach while maintaining a limited outrigger footprint.   
  • Working Height: 62 Feet
  • Platform Height: 56 Feet
  • Platform Capacity: 440 lbs.
  • Hydraulically Adjustable Track Width
  • Wireless Radio Control Box
  • Compact dimensions for enhanced accessibility on most any job-site
  • 17.33 Feet Long when Stowed
  • 3.45 Feet Wide when Stowed
  • 6.58 Feet High when Stowed
  • Rugged engine guard for improved protection from debris and obstructions
  • 11 HP Honda GX-390 Engine
  • Gas Powered Engine for Outdoor Use
  • 230V - 16A Electro-Pump for Indoor Use
Brazo Articulado IM R19
NEW Takeuchi TB216H HYBRID Excavator
 The compact size and dual power capabilities of the Takeuchi TB216H allow it to work in a wide range of applications that may have limited accessability and noise and clean air requirements.  It is ideal for plumbing, landscaping, utility installation, interior demolition, and rental applications.  Performance is identical between the diesel engine and electric motor, and the controls are the same regardless of operating mode.
  • Operating Weight: 4,277 lbs.
  • Horsepower: Diesel 14.9, Electric 14.2
  • Dig Depth: 7'10"
  • Reach: 13' 5"
  • Bucket Breakout Force: 4,250 lbs.
  • Powerful Electric Motor
  • Final Tier 4 Yanmar Engine
  • Independent Pumps for Motor & Engine
  • Identical Controls
  • Top Mounted Boom Cylinder
  • Easy Operation Diesel or Electric Mode
  • Pilot Joystick Controls
  • Pattern Change Valve
  • Multi-Information LED Display
  • See full manufacturer specs
DMS Takeuchi TB216 Hybrid - emission-free excavator!- Structure and function
  • Watch the video to see the new Takeuchi TB216H Hybrid in action.
Brewster | Bronx | Carmel | Elmsford | Flushing | Mt. Vernon | West Nyack
Call us Toll Free at 1-800-DURANTE

Thursday, April 6, 2017

What Chain Does My Chainsaw Need? A Guide to Choosing the Correct Chainsaw Chain

Man cuts log with Husqvarna Chainsaw

Even the highest quality chainsaw will need to have the chain replaced eventually. Your chainsaw will only function properly if fitted with the proper chain. So how do you decide which chain fits your chainsaw? 

In order to choose the correct chain for your specific chainsaw, you will need to know the following four sets of numbers:
  1. Bar length
  2. Pitch
  3. Gauge
  4. Drive Lengths (quantity)
These numbers can usually be found printed at the base of the chainsaw's bar. For the saw pictured to the left, the bar length would be 24”/60cm; the pitch would be 3/8”; the gauge would be .050”; and it has a total of 84 drive links (DL).
Demonstration of finding chain measurements on Husqvarna chainsaw

Some older chainsaws may not have these numbers printed on their bar or perhaps the numbers have worn out over time. In these cases, you can find your bar length, pitch, gauge, and number of drive lengths by using the guidelines below. You can also take your chainsaw to your local dealer.

Bar Length

You can find this number by measuring the length of the bar from the front of the chainsaw base to the farthest point on the cutting side of the bar. The “bar length” is always rounded to the nearest inch. 

Diagram of finding bar length on Husqvarna chainsaw

Note: The bar length should be calculated from the main body of the chainsaw to the tip of the bar, not from the base of the bar itself which sits inside your chainsaw frame.


Demonstration of finding chain pitch with rulerPitch is the distance between your chainsaw’s drive links. Drive links are the small metal pieces sticking inwards on your blade that fit into your bar. Simply take a ruler and measure the distance from the center of one rivet to the center of the second rivet adjacent to it and divide by two. This simple calculation will give you your pitch.

Number of Drive Links

To ensure you've chosen the right chainsaw chain, count the number of drive links on the chain. The easiest way to count them is to set up your chain so that the drive lengths are aligned. You can then count them easily, two at a time, down the length of the chain.

Chainsaw chain with labeled drive links


Diagram of a finding gauge widthThis number refers to the width of the groove in your chainsaw bar holding the drive links. One way to find this number is to measure your drive links with a tool called a caliper. If you don't have a caliper handy, start by cleaning one of the grooves using a knife or screwdriver. Then, try inserting a dime, a penny, and a quarter into the groove. The coin that fits snugly without forcing it will tell you the gauge.

Penny= .058"
Quarter= .063"

Buying your New Chainsaw Chain

Package of STIHL chainsaw blade with labels

Once you your bar length, pitch, gauge, and drive number you are ready to buy your new chain. Most chains will have the numbers clearly labeled somewhere on the packaging (see below). Chains come in various models and tooth options but if the numbers on the chain match the numbers you worked out for your chainsaw, you now have the right chainsaw chain and you're ready to get to work.

To purchase a new chainsaw chain, chainsaw accessories, or a new chainsaw, please visit or call 1-800-DURANTE today!

Monday, April 3, 2017

Excavator Track Maintenance: Get The Most Out Of Your Excavator Tracks

"The key to achieving optimal results in construction is to choose the right equipment and protect it with regular maintenance and care," said Jesse Pettit of Durante Rentals.

Use The Right Tracks

Jesse points out, "New tracks can retail anywhere from $1,000 to $3,000 so it is important to keep your project in mind when choosing excavator tracks."

Always consider the environment you will be working in. Firmer ground like hard packed soil or rocky terrain calls for a narrower track width or “shoe width”. However, muddy or soft ground will require a wider shoe width for even weight distribution and to keep your machine from sinking.

TB1140 Takeuchi Excavator on tarmac

Drive Smarter

 Drive smarter and extend the life of your tracks.
  • Do not drive over sharp / damaging materials
  • Do not drive over curbs
  • Avoid steep inclines / declines when possible
  • Always look forward (face your drive motor towards the back of your machine)
  • Avoid driving over chemicals, salt, oil, etc.
  • Avoid overly sharp turns
  • Minimize time on abrasive materials like concrete or asphalt

Takeuchi TB240 Excavator digging on construction site

Keeping these best-practices in mind will help prevent undue stress on your machine while extending the life of your tracks.

Keep Your Tracks Clean and Maintain Your Equipment

“Tracks should be cleaned of dirt and debris with a track spade or power washer after each use. If you skip this quick step, debris sitting on your tracks can eventually cause premature wear. After enough dirt accumulates, the added weight can also negatively effect your gas mileage. In the winter, frozen dirt can rub on the bolts, loosen the guiding and seize the rollers. When our rental machines come back, the first thing we do is make sure they are thoroughly cleaned,” says Jesse.

Man cleans mud out off Takeuchi excavator track

Regularly check the undercarriage of your machine for wear and tear. Worn sprockets, oil leaks, projecting bolts, or worn out rollers can seriously damage your tracks. Small cuts in a track will have little effect, but serious cuts/cracks can reflect damage to the cords. A deep cut will allow moisture into your cords, seriously shortening the life of your tracks.

Make sure to check track tension regularly. Loose tracks can damage your undercarriage and cause your tracks to slip off your machine while overly tight tracks can lead to serious performance issues.

Proper Storage

Try not to store your tracks in direct sunlight over long periods of time. Ideally, tracks should be stored in a dry, cool environment. If you know you your machine will be sitting for a while, make sure you take it for a spin every two weeks or so to prevent the tracks from warping.

Take Care While Installing New Tracks

"Be careful if installing new tracks yourself. Better yet, have a professional do it for you," says Jesse. Improper installation can damage your rollers or crack the track. If you still think you'd rather do it yourself, make sure you wear the correct safety gear, including boots, gloves, and safety glasses. As always, it’s best practice to take a few moments and familiarize yourself with both the operators and service manuals.

Man changes a track on a Takeuchi Excavator

TECH TIP: Always replace both tracks simultaneously. Matching worn components with new components can considerably shorten their lifespan.

For questions, or to learn about what kind of excavator is right for you, call 1-800-DURANTE or check our mini excavator page here.

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

A Guide to Air Compressor Maintenance

Man uses Kaeser Compressor to power rock drill

If you want to get the most out of your air compressor, make sure to keep up with routine maintenance.  It's that simple. "As with any complex machine, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” explains Jessie Pettit, Fleet Manager at Durante Rentals. “Regular and thorough maintenance can save you thousands of dollars and add years to the life of your air compressor." 

The best practices listed below will help you get the most out of your air compressor. An important thing to remember is that air compressors can differ significantly from model to model so make sure you check your owners manual or local dealer.

How often should I service my air compressor?

Upon purchasing a new air compressor, make sure to establish a maintenance regimen and then stick to it. You can find a number of free maintenance schedule templates online, but the following are good guidelines to stick to.

Daily Maintenance
Check oil levels

Image of oil level indicator Much like a car, many air compressors come with a dipstick that will allow you to check your oil level. Other models may come with an indicator like the one below. For those machines, the ideal oil level will be at the center of the red dot, however as long as the oil does not go below the dot you shouldn't worry.

Look for oil leaks

Be wary of any steep drops in oil or the presence of oil residue on the bottom of the tank. Oil leaks can quickly cause serious issues to you air compressor's components.

Purge moisture from tank

Image of moisture release valve

A few times a week, slowly open your compressor's release valve located at the bottom of the tank (see image) and drain out any excess moisture. This fast and easy procedure will help prevent pressure buildup and rusting of internal components. Frequency depends on how often the air compressor is used and the type of environment.

Listen for noises or vibrations

Strange noises may indicate a number of problems from air leaks to engine trouble. Make sure that you pay attention when operating your air compressor and quickly address any issues you detect. If your problems persist you should bring your air compressor in for service immediately.

Inspect hoses for air leaks

Air leaks in your hoses will affect the performance of your compressor and put undue strain on the rest of its components. Make sure to patch or replace your hoses as soon as you detect a leak.

Inspect belts

Loose belts can cause your compressor to squeal and create issues with low compression.

To check your belt's tension, locate and press down on the slackest part of the belt with roughly five pounds of pressure. Ideally, it should move approximately half an inch.

Weekly Maintenance
Check air filters 

Exposed Kaeser air filter with casing  Dirt in your air filters will force your machine to work harder to pull in air, hurting its efficiency. The buildup of dirt can also spread to other parts of your machine damaging more sensitive components. Filters should be checked for excessive grime buildup every week and changed every six weeks or so depending on use. Generally, these filters will be located within a plastic housing. Simply open this housing and examine the filter inside for excess dirt and grime. As the location of these filters will vary dramatically from model to model, it is recommended that you check your manual for their location.

Monthly Maintenance
Test release valves

Test release valveEvery air compressor comes equipped with a valve that will pop and release air if the pressure in the tank gets dangerously high. 

To test your release valve, turn on the air compressor and allow the pressure to build up for about half an hour. Then, locate the release valve. It should be a silver or gold valve sticking out of the tank, likely with a ring at the end of it. Finally, use a wrench to pull the release straight out. It should come out with some force, emptying air from the tank.

Look for and tighten loose bolts

Over the course of normal use, your air compressor’s vibrations may cause screws, nuts and bolts to loosen. This can lead to a number of problems down the line. 

Go over your air compressor checking each bolt and address anything that needs tightening.

Inspect connections for leaks

Exposed air compressor componentsLeaks are one of the major drains on air compressor efficiency. A typical air compressor that has not been well maintained can have a leak rate of twenty to thirty percent.

Leaks can be easily detected with an ultrasonic leak detector. Simply listen to the headphones and hone in on the source of your leak. 

Once found, most leaks can be easily repaired by simply tightening a loose connection. However, some may require drastic action, such as replacing couplings, fittings, pipe sections, hoses, joints, drains, and traps. Leaks may also be a result of poorly applied or worn out thread sealant. In these cases, you should select new fittings, disconnects, hoses or tubing, and install them properly with appropriate thread sealant.

Annual Maintenance (Over 200 Hours)
Fully service pump and engine

It is a good idea to bring your air compressor into your dealer or service station once a year. Trained professionals will be able to change the oil, install new air filters, replace any worn compressor belts, and generally take stock of your machine and address any issues. 

For questions, inquiries about air compressor sales and rentals, or to book a service appointment, visit or call 1-800-DURANTE today!

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

What is CFM and How Many CFM Should My Air Compressor Have?

Kaeser portable air compressor on jobsiteMost construction projects rely on air compressors to power their job-sites and equipment. They power a wide range of tools like pneumatic hammers, rock drills and concrete power cutting saws. A truck can't pull a load without adequate horsepower just like your air compressor can't power your pneumatic equipment if it doesn't generate enough CFM.
What is CFM?

Animation showing how air compressors work
CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) is the measurement used to describe how much air your compressor releases every minute.

Industrial air compressors use a diesel engine to draw in air, compress it, and release it in a powerful flow. Air is pulled into a chamber and compressed by two rotary screws and then released from a nozzle at the other end. This air can be used to power several pneumatic machines at once including paving breakers, chipping hammers, clay diggers, rivet busters, sand blasters and rock splitters.


PSI (pounds per square inch) is another important measurement for air flow but shouldn’t be confused with CFM. PSI refers to the force of the air your machine can put out (measured in pounds). CFM on the other hand refers to the total volume of the air your compressor can release (measured in square feet). For example, if you were to blow air onto a piece of paper, the PSI would be the pressure on the paper and the CFM would be the volume of the air you were blowing out.
Nail gun doing roofing work demonstrating PSI vs. CFM
With pneumatic machines, the higher the PSI the harder your attachment will drive. The greater the CFM, the faster it will work. For example, your pneumatic nail gun might be able to deliver nails at 100 PSI of force, but if your CFM is to low, it might only build up enough force to deliver one nail a minute. Alternatively, an adequate CFM will allow you to deliver a nail at 100 PSI every second.

How Many CFM Do I Need?

Most air compressors come with outputs of 185 CFM but they can range all the way up to thousands of CFM. Attachments will generally come with information on their CFM requirements. Breakers can range from 49 to 91 CFM, spikes are around 73 CFM, rock drills can be anywhere from 46.6 to 129 CFM, and chipping hammers generally won’t exceed 32 CFM.

Construction worker using rock drill to break rock
If you only use one tool at a time your compressor should generate enough CFM for your tool with the highest CFM requirements.

If you plan to use more than one tool at a time, your compressor should be able to provide the total CFM of all machines in use. For example, if you plan to use a 55 CFM spike and a 100 CFM rock drill simultaneously, your compressor should have an output of at least 155 CFM.

For more questions about CFM's, compressors, or pneumatic equipment, visit or call 1-800-DURANTE today!